Infrastucture

Nicholas and I reassembled the collector and wired in the motor. The system is now a little more modular, and can be taken apart for cleaning or moving. The only thing left to do is add a little tape around the top of the filter housing, I will do that tomorrow or Friday. But, dust can be collected again!

Not really. I had to disassemble quite a bit to get it out and damaged the piece that attaches to the filters. I am going to make a faster way to release the filters so the cyclone can be dropped don off the motor. Thanks for bringing it in.

Well I guess you can remove the motor on its own, that is a handy feature. Thank you to Nicholas for taking it down, I'll drop it off at the motor shop in town tomorrow morning. All of the loose parts from the mount are stored in the shed for now.

Thanks, Nicholas. Just looking at the plans, do you or anyone who helped put it together think the motor can be removed without full disassembly? Looks like it went in first and its mounting brackets are the lynchpin of the whole operation. That might be a weekend job.

I could give you a hand Tuesday night anytime after 1730.

The dust collector is a CV1800 LH. Unfortunatly the owners of Clear Vue have retired. It looks like they may have some parts if we email them. Attached is the user manual.

Hi Mauricio

Your pump is only 3hp. It wouldn't be strong enough. Thanks for the offer.

Thanks Grant. Probably better to try that first, haha. Is someone available to help me take it down tomorrow or Tuesday evening?

Grant I have a 220v motor from a spa that may fit. I can drop it off at the space anytime.

I would try taking it to Kamloops Electric Motor. 1260 Dalhousie (250) 372-9822

Lets see if it can be repaired.

5hp Leeson

P145K34DK8A

You can factory order one for $800 from eMotorsDirect, unknown lead time (will call tomorrow). There are faster options for more. Not sure what leeway we have on the specs, if we can just get a Baldor with the same input/output, as long as it fits in our rig?

We need to replace the motor. We can look for the make and model of the extractor and see what motor is specified. Otherwise we can look at the nameplate on the motor and see what we can find. It gets tricky trying to match the motor mounting points and shaft.

The barrel isn't full yet, or at least the cone and fan aren't blocked up. I blew all the dust out of the motor and was able to even spin the fan with the air nozzle. Even with it spooled up to a good clip, the motor won't turn on when the switch is thrown.

You can hear it drawing current, and the fan blade will twitch, but not turn.

Is it so full that the fan is blocked? Sounds like something might be stuck in the blades.

The fan on the dust collector doesn't seem to be turning on. The panel fires up with the switch is thrown, but the fan doesn't turn on and the 16/18 breaker trips after around 15s. I checked the panel, made sure all the breakers were set before trying it again, same result. There is an Out of Order note on the switch.

Haha, thanks. I will admit, the thought did cross my mind why I would put the filter in last over the bag, but it was only an extra 12 bucks. I can see if there's a way to modify the filter to fit in the back, but it seems designed for this (incorrect) configuration.

I did that at the old space and found the pre-filter plugs very quickly. You might abandon that when the costs add up.

Filtering after the bag filter would give better air quality for less cost. Having a fine filter in front of a course filter leaves the coarse filter with nothing to catch.

Using a washable filter would also help with cost.

Its close enough related to the dust collector, but the filter bag on the overhead dust extractor fan has been replaced, and now we also have the box filter piece in front of it. The old bag filter will be cleaned and kept as a spare.

On Monday, Nicholas and I dug out a trench in the floor, and buried a length of 4" pipe and cable. Today, with the concrete fully set, I added ducting and a blast gate under the worktable to service the tablesaw and router table. The cable will allow for future installation of outlets in the table to power the saw and router, so that we don't have to run cords to the walls.

The setup allows the hose to flex as the saw assembly and dust port tilt/raise with the blade, and allow the saw to be pulled a short distance away from the table for better access behind it. Using the saw without the dust collector turned on may allow dust and shavings to clog the hose, this can also happen at the mitre saw.

Down the road, we could hook up some kind of box around the table router, and attach a 2.5" duct to the open end of the tee under the saw. Additional dust ports or outlets for small tools like sanders could also be added to the table.

Tim and I ran the ducting over the shelving and down to a blast gate and flexhose hookup. There is a bit of flex in the duct when the system turns on, and when the hose end is blocked. We cut the solid ducting into half-lengths, and ended up putting a rigid connector piece between each 30" length duct, so it should be far more stable despite the movement that can be seen.

This last hose should be able to service the bandsaw and belt sander (once the sander's kit in the red tub in the vacuum hose box is installed). The only issue is that I purchased a very durable flex hose, and the combined weight of the plastic and steel spring is enough to pull the magnetic coupler away from the bandsaw. Might need to add a hanger on the wall to reduce the weight suspended by the magnets, or get much stronger magnets to put in the couplers. There is a hand clamp on the bandsaw that can help secure the coupler for now.

I also did a bit of reorganizing of the spare lumber, and the jointer can now sit close enough to the wall that you aren't on your tip-toes to grab a pencil or the sawzall. The smaller pieces of plywood/mdf that seem to be used for laser cutting/cnc are reachable beside the jointer and on the wall beside the lathe, hopefully we can continue to pare those down.